Visit the amazing Isles of Scilly
Not to gloat or make a big thing of it, but I’ve visited over 50 countries in my lifetime, mostly backpacking. I have to say, hand on heart, that one of the most beautiful and unique places I’ve had the privilege to visit (many times) is the Isles of Scilly. Just 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall, these special islands keep pulling you back with their stunning beaches, aqua seas, fresh air and slow pace of life. They have changed over the years when they’ve had to move with the times. But the essence of the islands hasn’t changed. It’s a very special place.
Beautiful Isles of Scilly Beaches
How to get there
When I was a young child, the journey to the Isles of Scilly was either a quick helicopter ride from Penzance or a three hour journey on the second Scillonian ferry. It wasn’t always a pleasant journey with the best position on the ship being as close to the sick bag shelf as possible.
Times have changed and the Scillonian III ferry is more comfortable, but it can still be a rough ride if the weather’s bad. (It looks like there is now a Scillonian IV on the cards. Watch this space!) Unfortunately, the main helicopter has now gone, but you can still fly by helicopter to Tresco and there is a new helicopter service that has just started from Penzance. The journey to Scilly on its fleet of tiny aircraft is an exciting part of the whole Isles of Scilly experience.
Scillonian III
There’s always a feeling of excitement as St. Mary’s harbour comes into view from the Scillonian when you arrive (maybe not if the sea has been rough and you’ve spent three hours with your head in a paper bag!). As you step onto the quay, the smell of boat diesel and fresh air marks your arrival.
The Scillonian leaves Penzance Harbour each morning between March and November. Check Isles of Scilly Travel for details. In the busy Summer months, there are two sailings on Saturday mornings. It’s a pleasant sailing but, depending on the weather, I wouldn’t recommend a big English breakfast before you leave. Make sure you take plenty of colouring books/games to keep children happy. There isn’t much entertainment apart from looking out for dolphins (what better entertainment can you get?!) and running around after little kids could mean you turn green very quickly. Make sure you take some sea sickness tablets!
When you arrive at Penzance harbour, it’s a good idea, if there are a few of you, or you have children, to get your driver to drop you off with the luggage, whilst they go to your pre-booked parking space. The luggage goes into large containers, each marked with the relevant island destination. You then just stand in the orderly queue waiting to embark. Once the Scillonian arrives at St. Mary’s Harbour, any off-island luggage will be put onto the relevant launches. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it all works smoothly (most of the time!)
Skybus
As you fly over the Scillies for the first time, you could imagine yourself in the Caribbean. Blue sky, aqua sea and little white beaches dotted in between. You can take the Skybus from the tiny land strip at Land’s End, or from further away in Newquay or Exeter. It’s an unforgettable experience.
Luggage
If you arrive on the Scillonian, and you’re staying on St. Mary’s, your luggage should be delivered to your accommodation if you have clearly labelled each piece (by Island Carriers). They will leave an invoice with your luggage. You can also organise for them to collect your luggage when you leave. You can take your luggage yourself on the quay. If you’re staying on an off-island, your luggage should have gone into different containers on the quay at Penzance. When you board the boat to take you to your island, it will usually collect your luggage from the side of the Scillonian. Basically, the small boat will go alongside the Scillonian and luggage will be passed out of a door onto the boat. All part of the fun!
Where to stay
There’s a lot of choice when it comes to accommodation on Scilly. Although a holiday on the Isles of Scilly can be expensive, there are a few places to stay that are a bit cheaper. In the past, island accommodation wasn’t always as upmarket and comfortable as the equivalent priced places to stay on the UK mainland. I think there was the belief that, given the amazing scenery and uniqueness of the islands, visitors would put up with what was available. Believe me, we did. Fast forward to the twenty first century and things are quite different. Visitors will pay the high prices for accommodation but in return expect a lot more for their money, which is fair enough.
The main problem for visitors and a blessing for accommodation owners is that places get booked up, often a year in advance. Desperate to return, visitors will book their holiday for the same week the following year, before they leave. It’s that good. My parents have been nearly every year for the past 45 years! But, there are places to be found if you book early. The best place to find accommodation listings.
Where to eat
Over the past few years, eating out in the Isles of Scilly has improved so much that it has become part of the holiday experience. There are now choices for all budgets and palettes, on all of the islands. Even lovely unspoilt St Agnes has a few good places to eat.
How to get around
At 2½ miles by 1¾ miles miles, St. Mary’s isn’t that big but if you have young children or you don’t have a lot of time, walking isn’t always an option if you want to get from one side of the island to the other. There are taxis, which can pick you up at your accommodation to take you to the airport or vice versa. There is a bus tour, which takes you around the island, a taxi service, and the Scilly Cart Company, where you can hire buggies to get around the island. These are great fun, especially for children, and they save your legs!
Boat Trips
You can’t visit the Isles of Scilly without doing a bit of island hopping. There are five inhabited islands: St. Mary’s, St. Martins, Tresco, Bryher and St. Agnes, each of which has its own launch. St. Mary’s being the largest, has more boats to choose from. Getting to St Mary’s quay as early as possible in the morning will help you to avoid the long queues and ensure you get a good spot on the boat. If it’s good weather, sitting on the outer seats is great for seal and island spotting. If it’s bad, you might be better to huddle on the middle seats and avoid big wave splashes. Check the weather forecast before you set off as things can change quite quickly on Scilly
Off islands
Holidaying on the off islands is a very different experience to staying on St. Mary’s. If you stay on St. Martin’s, Tresco, Bryher or St. Agnes, there are few cars, no roads, amazing beaches, freedom, fresh air and a slow pace of life that you won’t find on the British mainland. You still have to make way for the odd tractor or quad bike.
Each island has something different to offer. Each has changed since my early visits as a child, some more than others, but they are still magical unique islands. St. Martin’s has more farmland than the others, small lanes, a lovely campsite, a great pub where you can sit outside with a drink and panoramic views. Things have changed since my grandparents stayed there in the 1960s, when there was no mains water and electricity only for a few hours a day.
Tresco has changed dramatically over the years. There’s less of a ‘local’ feel to the island now. More so as it is mostly timeshare. Some of this has spilled over to Bryher, the smallest of the five islands. Hell Bay Hotel offers everything you would expect from a high end accommodation. A huge change from holidaying there in the early 1980s, when we stayed in little single story apartments and the electricity stopped at ten o’clock!
St. Agnes has probably changed the least. Further out than the other islands, it has a gentle, untouched feel. Beautiful walks take you across the island to empty beaches and clear aqua seas. Just make sure you allow enough time to walk back to catch the boat!
